Measure the width around three different places along the spool and get the average. Use calipers to measure the diameter of the filament, which can be slightly different from that of the manufacturer. You should always use the settings recommended by the manufacturer but the steps in this article will also lead to the best results. The reason for fine-tuning the filament is that different rolls of filament come with different qualities. ![]() Repeating the measurements and taking the average will give the best results. For each axis, repeat the computation you did for the extruder, using the new values.Īfter computation, send the new M92 commands to the printer, using the correct corresponding letters to the axis. Print a small cube design and measure its dimensions. The calibration process of the axes is similar to that of the extruder but requires actual printing. For as long as they’re in the expected range, there’s no need to worry. Assuming the initial number of steps was 140, the new command to send would be M92 E 135.92 as 10x140/10.30= 135.92.Īlways expect some variations in the figures after each calibration. For example, if the initial value was 53.10mm before extrusion and 42.80 afterward, the new value would be 10.30mm. Send the command M92 E to the printer to tell the printer the new value then to M500 to save it. For optimum results, compute this several times and get the average. To calculate the steps per millimeter for the extruder, use this formula: 10* A / (B-C). The distance between B and C is the extruded amount of the filament, and should not be more than 10 millimeters. Next, extrude the filament for 10 millimeters and measure the distance from this point to the top of the extruder. Use calipers to measure the exact value and mark this as B. Secondly, insert some filament up to 50 millimeters above the top of the extruder. The last value is the number of steps the extruder requires per one millimeter of extruded filament.įor ease of reference, mark this value as A. The output will look like “Steps per unit: M92 x 100.00 Y100.00 Z400.0 E140.00.” The first three values represent the number of steps the motors must move one millimeter in the respective directions. You need to send some code commands to the printer to retrieve the settings. Set the Values Correctlyįor the proper calibration of the extruder, the 3D printer should extrude at the optimum amount. If you can figure out the relationship between the steps and distance, you’ll have an easier time. This lets you have a lot of control over the 3D printer. If a rotation is 100 steps, the motor will move 50 steps for half the rotation. The rotations of the stepper motor are responsible for moving the axes or the extruder. If the nozzle is too deep into the first layer, increase the Z offset and vice versa. What you need is to tune the Z offset, which is the real indicator of the distance between the Z-axis and the Z end. If it is, the print will lack enough adhesion, which will make it fall apart. The nozzle should also not be too far from the bed. Doing so squishes the first layer and makes the first print go to waste. While doing this, avoid bringing the nozzle too close to the bed. Step 1: Fix the First Layerįor the best final print, you must fix up a good first layer. However, if you follow this guide keenly, you’ll hack the process accurately. For a beginner, they might present a more tedious task than to a more experienced person. The process of how to calibrate 3D printer requires many calculations for the best results. ![]() The good news is that once you've mastered one motor, the rest of the motors follow pretty much the same process. One of them is how to calibrate all the motors accurately. Learning how to use a 3D printer correctly has several steep curves.
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